The Po Valley is an ideal place for the “lovers of the void” of every preference and proficiency. There are not only the alpinist routes on Monviso but also the cliffs in the middle of the valley and of Mombracco, where one can climb all year round when the weather allows it…
CLIMBING SITES
Monte Bracco
Mombracco is strewn with cliffs that are accessible all year round. Thanks to its fantastic gneiss that has always attracted an increasing number of climbers, innumerable routes have been opened here.
The best known faces for the passionate climbers are those on the south side, but the beauty and the variety of the rock offers highly sought after climbing areas on the other sides as well.
SOUTH side
Monotype cliff, 350 routes on three sides
Orientation: sud
Recommended period: September-June
Access: from the village of Sanfront you reach the district Mombracco, take the small road that ascends on the left of the little church (Madonna delle Grazie) and after a short distance you reach the parking.
Remarks:there are 3 sectors – the Cumbal Reinaud in the west, the Settore Centrale and the Combale Tofu in the east.
Technical grades: Cumbal Reinaud from 3 to 7 (Ao) – Settore Centrale from 2 to 8 – Combale Tofu from 3 to 7b
SOUTHWEST side
Orientation: sud-ovest
Recommended period:: September-June
Access: from the village of Sanfront, ascending the orographically left side of the Po River, you reach the district Robella or Rocchetta.
Approach:from the parking continue on foot following the signs for the different sectors.
Remarks:this area offers quite decent climbing possibilities that are going to be expanded, considering the high historic and cultural value of some of its settlements (for example Balma Boves).
EAST side – ROCCA BERT
Orientation:: est
Recommended period: September-June
Access:from the village of Envie.
Approach: continue on foot to the site
versante NORD-OVEST
Orientation: nord-ovest (little sun)
Recommended period: March-October
Access:from Barge, district Capoloira and Castello Vecchio, or from Barge, district Lungaserra.
Approach:from the district Capoloira continue on foot for about 10 minutes.
Remarks:Rocca Borgognona is the most important structure; its story began at the beginning of the 70s. In contrast to the left and the right sectors, the central zone of the cliff is of a greenish colour with black parts due to the presence of a thin layer of lichens. It does not cause any inconvenience for the climbers during the dry periods because the rock offers grip, but after the rain or in humid periods the situation is completely different.
The particular area of Lungaserra, on the other hand, consists of big blocks and towers of gneiss, polished over the ages. The structures, surrounded by forest, create a varied and three-dimensional setting, evoking fantastic presences and an atmosphere of faraway countries.
Technical grades: from 5 to 8
For additional information see www.mombracco.it
The Duomo di Rocciarè
Orientation: Est
May-October: May-October
Access: from Paesana continue towards Crissolo for 4 km. After the Oncino junction continue for about 200 m and park after the switchback.
Approach: go back 50 metres and ascend along the marked trail that continues in the forest. Three minutes from the car the first faces appear.
Remarks:vast climbing area, ideal for technicians and experts
Technical grades:from 6 to 6c
Oncino Junction
Orientation: from east to north
Recommended period: March-October
Access: from Paesana continue towards Crissolo for 4 km. Parking close to the Oncino junction (bridge over the Po River).
Approach:he faces are in the vicinity of the junction (the North Face can only be seen from the road to Crissolo, 500 metres further up).
Remarks: on the long routes make sure to bring nuts, friends and some bolts
Technical grades: from 4+ to 6c+
Ciampetti and Ostana/span>
Orientation: Est
Recommended period:April-October
Access: from the municipality of Ostana you reach the small church San Nicolao beyond the district Bernardi.
Approach: having parked the car you follow the trail that continues towards east and leads above the tower (5 minutes). From an anchor with two double ropes you descend to the base (2×25).
Remarks: small climbing site consisting of 4 routes.
Costagrande (Mountain hut Q. Sella)
Orientation: Sud/Est
Recommended period: July-September
Access: from Crissolo continue towards Pian del Re.
Approach: d from the parking at Pian del Re continue on foot along the trail that leads to the mountain hut Sella. The faces are in the vicinity of the Costa Grande Lake.
Support points:Mountain hut Quintino Sella (Lake Grande di Viso) 2,640 m – opened in summer. Telephone and fax 0175.94943.
Remarks: routes equipped with bolts and normal pitons (very good) situated at 2,600 m on a southern spur of the Viso Mozzo.
Difficoltà: from 3b to 6b+
Punta Udine and surroundings (Mountain hut Vitale Giacoletti)
Orientation: east and north
Recommended period: July-September
Access: from Crissolo continue towards Pian del Re.
Approach: from the parking at Pian del Re continue on foot along the trail that leads to the mountain hut V. Giacoletti; the faces are in the vicinity.
Support points:Mountain hut V. Giacoletti (east ridge Punta Udine) 2,741 m – opened in summer. Telephone 0175.940104.
Remarks: climbing crag in breathtaking scenery.
Technical grades:from 2b to 7b
Rocce Alte
Orientation: east and northeast
Recommended period: July-September
Access: from Crissolo continue towards Pian del Re (sources of the Po – 2,020 m)
Approach: proceed to the entrance of the Traversette Valley ascending the mule track on the left side – after 15 minutes, after a cairn, on the left is the site – the lowest is the Pilastro, on the right is the quite impressive face, further to the right is the Avancorpo.
Support points: Albergo Alpino Pian del Re, Crissolo. Telephone 0175.94967.
Remarks: sclassic site that requires the use of bolts and cord.
Technical grades: from 3a to 7b+
For additional information consult the new guide: F. Parussa, G. Bergese, Falesie del Monviso. 1400 vie in valle Po e Infernotto. Ed. Graph Art – Manta, 2010.
